PARIS— At Vivienne Westwood’s autumn program Saturday, Andreas Kronthaler sent out a clear message: disobedience lives and well. The collection, presented at the Pavillon Cambon, was a trouble of irreverence and improvement, combining knifelike customizing with Westwood’s trademark feeling of mischievousness.
” There’s absolutely nothing even more attractive than a match,” the program keeps in mind proclaimed, and Kronthaler took that rule to heart. Power fitting controlled– extra-large sports jackets curtained over silken t-shirts, pants reduced right into unbalanced skirts, and raincoat called as much as near-operatic percentages. A deep navy double-breasted layer, cinched snugly at the midsection and coupled with an imposing really felt hat, seemed like a lively nod to British upper class– if the upper class had a punk touch and an evil funny bone.
Texture was an additional celebrity of the program. Beefy wintertime layers in harsh woollens clashed wonderfully with sparkling metal hoods and multicolor knitwear, while velour and silk dress overemphasized the body with vibrant cushioning at the hips and shoulders. Devices drifted right into pure Westwood dream– hairy heels, intentionally clashing socks, and an opulent coop purse, equivalent components luxurious and paradoxical.
The collection likewise worked as an individual homage. Noting his thirty years in London, Kronthaler wove in refined referrals to the city’s diverse power, instilling the schedule with a mix of streetwise side and historical magnificence. As the last design left, he tipped onto the path, arrangement in hand, and flung blossoms right into the group, a congratulatory motion that really felt as spontaneous and staged as the clothing themselves.
Vivienne Westwood’s tradition has actually constantly had to do with testing assumptions. Under Kronthaler, that bold spirit stays, charged with a fresh, courageous feeling of dramatization.
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